By Éloge Willy Kaneza and Rachel Ndjondjo
Portland —At Burundi Star Coffee in Portland, the scent of freshly brewed Burundian coffee from the hills of Ngozi, Muyinga, and Kayanza in northeastern Burundi, mingles with soft jazz – an American music form with African roots. And this mingling makes sense because, for the Burundi Star team, the café is more than a business – it’s a bridge connecting continents, cultures, and people
Curiosity meets culture
From behind the counter, in her place at the heart of the cafe’s daily rhythm, Caroline Iteka said that customers primarily speak English, French, Kinyarwanda, Kinyamulenge, Kirundi, or Swahili, reflecting the cafe’s East African roots as well as the language of Maine. And she described how Burundi Star Coffee blends Burundian tradition with the tastes of local Mainers.
“Here, how we function is really like – this is a coffee shop – and it’s a Burundian coffee shop. We sell coffee from Burundi. Our manager André actually has a farm there. But we also have snacks that reflect both East African and American cultures,” Iteka said.
The cafe serves samosas, avocado toast, paninis, and a variety of traditional and fusion dishes. Despite its modest size, Burundi Star attracts a diverse clientele. “There are Americans and even French [speaking] people who come here, not just Africans,” Iteka said. “And surprisingly, even Americans love our banana stew.”
Arsène Irishura, another cafe team member, said the shop does more than feed the body: “We’re sharing a piece of who we are. And when people come in and appreciate that, it gives us hope. It shows that even far from home, people can build community – one cup at a time.”
For Iteka, letting people taste the food is a key to sharing culture. “Most Americans are curious. We always give them a small spoon to try the banana stew – because sometimes you can’t describe the taste, you have to feel it. Once they try it, they come back for more,” she said.
Irishura agreed that the food pleases many palates. “Many of our customers are white people. They love our food. The banana stew attracts more Black people, but we also have eggs and cheese for everyone. It’s really a mix,” he said.
When hospitality opens doors
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Behind the counter, the two young Burundians move easily between taking orders, joking, and exchanging greetings with customers in multiple languages. Both are recent college graduates, who see their work at the cafe not just as a job, but as an opportunity to grow.
“I just graduated from college,” Iteka said. “Working here has allowed me to meet people from different backgrounds – CEOs, CPAs, people in the corporate world. It’s opened doors for me, helped me make connections.”
That openness has led to unexpected opportunities. “There was a jazz band that came to play in South Portland,” Irishura recalled. “They loved how we served them here, so they asked if we could help them sell tickets and organize their event. It went really well – it was amazing. It’s not just a coffee shop – it’s a place where people meet, connect, and even find jobs!”
Among the regulars are Anne and Lou Graham, a couple from western Massachusetts, who discovered the cafe when their daughter and her partner moved to Portland about a year and a half ago. They have been customers ever since.
Anne Graham smiled as she described what she likes. “I love the coffee, I love the samosas, and I love this space. It’s very inviting,” she said.
Her husband Lou agreed. “[The team] shares their food, their stories, their warmth, and we share our curiosity and respect.”
Before leaving, the Grahams ordered a food that was new to them: banana stew.
“I just saw the banana stew on the menu. It sounds like a tasty treat. I’m always open to trying new food!” Lou said, adding, “It’s about understanding and offering community. People help people all over the world, and like you say, the world has become smaller – we can share what we have.”
Two styles of East African banana stew
Banana stew is a popular dish across East Africa, especially in Burundi, Rwanda, and Uganda. Each culture lends the stew a unique flavor and identity, reflecting local ingredients and culinary traditions, however the stew is always made from green bananas or plantains. The banana stew that Irishura makes at Burundi Star is made of banana, oil, onions, sardines, and spinach.
Burundian-style banana stew: hearty, rustic, and unique
In Burundi, banana stew (igitoki) is traditionally hearty and rustic, often cooked slowly over a wood fire. The dish uses boiled green bananas simmered with beans, tomatoes, and sometimes peanut or palm oil sauce, giving it a nutty flavor and rich texture.
A distinctive Burundian touch is the addition of small fish known as ndagala – tiny, nutrient-rich fish found only in Lake Tanganyika, a body of water shared by Burundi, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Tanzania, and Zambia. When added to the stew, ndagala infuses it with a deep umami flavor and the subtle taste of the lake, creating a dish that is both nutritious and distinctive.
Burundian cooks often mix in green peas, adding color, texture, and a hint of sweetness to the stew. Seasoning is simple – onions, garlic, and salt – allowing the natural sweetness of the bananas, the savoriness of the fish, and the freshness of the peas to shine. The stew is typically served with beans or rice, and shared as a symbol of hospitality and community.
Rwandan Ugandan banana stews: creamy, savory
In Rwanda and Uganda, the dish – often called matoke – is prepared slightly differently. Green bananas are boiled or steamed and then mashed, and simmered in a tomato, onion, and garlic sauce. Many cooks enrich the stew with coconut milk or clarified butter (ghee), giving it a smooth, creamy texture.
Just like in Burundi, green peas are sometimes added, creating a subtle sweetness and visual appeal. This version often includes mild spices like turmeric or curry powder, adding a warm color and gentle flavor. The dish is served with stewed meat, beans, or vegetables. The emphasis is on a soft, mashed consistency, which is different in taste and presentation from the hearty, chunky Burundian version.
Shared comfort food
Whether Burundian or Rwandan/Ugandan in style, banana stew is more than just a meal. Culturally, it represents culture, home, and togetherness. From the nutty, fish-infused richness of Burundi to the creamy, subtly spiced mash of Rwanda and Uganda, banana stew exemplifies the diversity and creativity of East African cuisine.
